Why Is My Skin Getting Pigmentation Even Though I Use Sunscreen?

Pigmentation is extremely common in Australia, particularly in sunny climates such as Brisbane. Many people are surprised to develop brown patches, uneven skin tone or dark spots despite using sunscreen. The reason is that pigmentation is not caused by sunlight alone.

Sunlight, visible light and pigmentation

Ultraviolet radiation is an important driver of pigmentation and cumulative skin damage. UVA penetrates more deeply into the skin and plays a major role in photoageing, while UVB is strongly associated with sunburn and contributes to skin cancer. Visible light can also worsen pigmentation, particularly in people prone to melasma and those with darker Fitzpatrick skin types.

Importantly, there is no separate category of solar ultraviolet radiation called “UVC exposure” at ground level—UVC from the sun is effectively filtered by the atmosphere.

In Brisbane, where UV levels can be very high, relatively short periods of unprotected exposure can contribute to cumulative damage over time. The amount of exposure required varies considerably according to Fitzpatrick skin type, genetics, season and UV index. Fairer skin generally develops visible photodamage sooner than darker skin.

Hormones and melasma

For many women, hormones are another major factor.

Melasma commonly produces symmetrical brown or grey-brown pigmentation, particularly over the cheeks, forehead and upper lip. Oestrogen and other hormonal influences can contribute, which helps explain why melasma may develop or worsen during pregnancy or while taking the oral contraceptive pill.

Sunlight and visible light can then stimulate the pigment-producing melanocytes further. Heat may also exacerbate melasma in some people, making pigmentation particularly challenging in Queensland’s hot climate.

Not every brown mark is melasma

This is an important distinction. Facial pigmentation may represent:

• Melasma

• Freckles

• Solar lentigines or “sun spots”

• Post-inflammatory pigmentation

• Seborrhoeic keratoses

• Pigmentation associated with acne, dermatitis or rosacea

• Less commonly, certain fungal or bacterial skin conditions

This is why treating pigmentation without establishing the diagnosis first can produce disappointing results—and some inappropriate treatments can actually make pigmentation worse.

What can you do?

Prevention starts with broad-spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen, applied generously and reapplied appropriately. Apply sunscreen before going outdoors and use sun protection whenever the UV index is 3 or above.

For people prone to melasma or pigmentation, a tinted sunscreen containing mineral pigments such as iron oxides can provide additional protection against visible light. Hats, shade and reducing unnecessary direct sun exposure are equally important.

Once we understand the type and depth of pigmentation, treatment can be individualised. Depending on the diagnosis, this may include prescription or compounded topical medications, pigment-controlling skincare and carefully selected laser or energy-based treatments.

At SKEEN, we can assess the skin and determine whether the pigmentation is due to melasma, sun damage, freckles, inflammatory skin disease or another condition before recommending treatment.

The key is simple: before trying to remove pigmentation, find out what is causing it.